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1.. P. TURNER 80 P. S. SEARLE".

COLLAR.

N, PETERS. PhaQo-Lilhugmphen wasm w, ac.

UNITED STATES ISAAC TURNER PATENT OFFICE.

AND FRANK S. SEARLE, OF TROY, NE? YORK, ASSIGNORS TO J AMES K. P. PINE, OF SAME PLACE.

COLLAR.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 279,994, dated June 26, 1883.

Application filed April 12, was, (No model.)

T 0/. whom it may concern:

Be it known that we, ISAAC P. TURNER and FRANK S. SEARLE, of the city ofTroy, county of Rensselaer, and State of New York, have jointly invented a new and useful Improvement in Apparel-Collars, of which the following is a specification.

Our invention relates to apparelcollars and an improved method of making them, the ob- Io ect of our invention and improvement being to facilitate their manufacture and to insure the production of regular well-defined edges when turned and finished. Our improvements more particularly relate to standing collars that are made with a thinner part on their lower edge, and which are made without a band proper.

Accompanying this specification, and forming a part of it is asheet of drawings contain :0 ing three figures illustrating our invention, with the same designation of parts by letterreference used in all of them.

Figure 1 shows the collar as divided crossa wise, with the parts in position after having :2 5 been sewed upon their edges wrong side out, and before having been turned, the end of each 4' part where out being indicated as underlapping those superimposed, so as t-obetter illustrate their relative position, the part desig- 3o nated at A showing the open face through which the collar is turned, and that at A the opposite face of the unturned collar. Fig. 2 shows the position of the parts of which the collar is made after having been laid and sewed upon their edges, as indicated at Fig. 1, and then turned, with the collar illustrated as cut crosswise, and the ends of the parts being cut so as to underlap those superimposed, to better illustrate their relative position, both of the 40 divided parts of the collar being shown with what is the collar exterior when worn as'facing the View. Fig. 3 shows a collar that contains our improvement, which has also been crosswise divided in two parts,with what is the 4 5 inner surface and that next to the wearer when worn indicated as facing the view.

The parts or pieces from which the collar is made are designated by letter reference as follows: i

The letter H indieatesa thickness of the ply; o 13, the linen exterior facing of the collar, the

ply Hand the facing F beingboth cut to have the full width of the collar. The inside facing of the collar, and that which is next to the person of the wearer when worn, is composed of two parts longitudinally divided. The narrower part, and that applied to form. the lower edge, and thence upwardly to the extent of its width to face the inner side, is designated at O, andthe wider upper part of this inner fac- 6o ing is indicated at O The letter P indicates a thickness of the ply which has about the same width as the upper linen inner facing, 0*.

To produce a collar from the parts thus in- 6 5 dicated according to our improved method, the wider part facingO and the narrow ply P are sewed on what are their inner edges when in place, and they are then turned over and folded down on such sewed line, with the fold-line of the linen part facing 0 subtending that oft-he part ply P, and as indicated at N, Fig. 1. \Vhen thishas been done the parts are laid as shown at Fi 1., with the fullwidth ply H at the bottom, and next above this the fullavidth outer facing, -1 ,upon'what forms the upper partof the collar when turned, and with their outer unsewcd edges and ends coincident with the corresponding parts of the ply H and full-width exterior facing, F, are placed the previously-described united wider linen part facing O" and narrow ply P, with the latter uppermost, and then upon what is thelower part of the collar when turned, and being laid so to coincide with the lower 8 5 edges and ends of the ply H and full-width linen facing F,there is placed the narrower linen part facing O, with the inner edge of the latter overlapping the united edges of the ply P, and wider linen part facing O where 0 joined. The parts as thus placed, and as in dicated at Fig. 1, are sewed together all around on their edges, as designated at S. They are then turned through the opening J, and,with the wider linen part facing 0* overlapping the 5 inner edge of the narrower part facing O, to form afiy-edge, c, the parts are sewed together, as indicated at S. The beaded flyedge formed 011 the bottom of the under part facing 0 and thus produced by unitingthe turned-in and doubled thicknesses of the narrow ply 1 and wider part facing 0* by means of the seam S forms a boundary [between the thicker and thinner parts of the collar to receive starch when being laundered, as a fiy-edge to better support and stiffen the collar when ironed. By our improved method of thus dividing the thicker from the thinner parts of the collar by means of a beaded fly, the latter can be made to curve, if desired, so as to correspond with the curve upon the bottom of the collar, and in this respect being unlike older collars of this kind, in which, as made, only a straight seam could be used, and in which no adaptation could occur on the line of the seam dividing the thicker from the thinner parts of the collar an objectionable condition which our better process obviates. As the parts of a collar are thus laid, sewed, and turned, welldefined and regular edges are produced, so.

that when the collars are borderstitched, as indicated at S", they have a uniform appearance.

WVe are well aware that different widths of ply and facing have been used to produce a bowed or curved seam in the body proper of a banded collar, which seam was constructed to extend upwardly from the band ends into the body proper of the collar to produce a fold line, along which the collar could be turned over and down above the band, which con struction, as thus applied, we disclaim, our inventionbeing limited to the manner of pro ducing and applying a seam to divide off the thicker from the thinner parts of a bandless collar, and the method and process steps as used in sequence to give to such seam a beaded fly-edge. 1

Having thus described our invention, what we claim, and desire to secure by Letters Pat ent, is-

1. In abandless collar that is made with an upper thicker part and a lower thinner part, and widths of inner facing corresponding in width thereto, a beaded fly-edge arr. nged on the horizontal dividing between thethicker and thinner parts of the collar, and said beaded fly-edge produced by the sewed, doubled, and turned-in lower edge of a thickness of the ply that is placed in the upper thicker part of the collar, the sewed and turned-in lower edge of the upper part facing, and a row of stitching made through the overlapping upper inner part facing, away from its lower edge, the underlapping upper edge of the inner lower part facing, the full-width ply, and exterior facing of the collar, as shown and de scribed.

2. An apparelcollar made by first sewing together on their inner edges and turning over and down on such sewed line the wider part facing 0* and the narrow ply P, then placing upon the full-width ply H the linen exterior facing, 1 and next the wider part facing O and narrow ply P, united, as before described, with the outer edges of both coincident to those of the full-width facing F and ply H, and then placing the narrow part facing O with its lower edge and ends coincident to the ends and lower edge of the linen exterior facing, F, and ply H, then sewing the parts so laid and placed around their outer edges, turning them. through the opening J, and finally closing the 75 latter, as indicated at S, as herein described.

Signed at the city of Troy this 6th day of April, 1883.

ISAAC P. TURNER. FRANK S. SEARLE.

Vitnesses:

\VILLARD \V. SEARLE, CHARLES S. BRINTNALL. 

